In conversation with chef Vikas Khanna

Describe how you felt on your first visit to Dubai.

When I first landed in Dubai, I remember thinking this was the most majestic airport I'd ever seen. Leaving the Arrivals terminal, I was mesmerised by the sidewalks and streets, which are so well landscaped and lined with blossoms. In that moment, I felt quite proud to bring my vision to a city that has such a strong vision too.

What are your thoughts on the city's culinary scene?

Dubai is very welcoming of chefs who want a global reach. The city is a stage for those in the culinary industry who may not have had this kind of access before. And because the audience isn't homogenous, the chefs' ideas can take root in many different countries from its Dubai base. That's why I believe the local food scene is constantly evolving, always serving up new creations and trends, and giving each a fair chance to grow.

Tell us about your restaurant, Kinara at JA The Resort.

The inspiration for my restaurant Kinara comes from simple, delicious homestyle meals. My intention was to serve typical Indian dishes but elevate their appeal through plating. It was important that the concept evoked a sense of comfort though, as opposed to being another visual gimmick or fad. I want anyone who enters the space and sits down for a bite to feel like it's an extension of a cosy dining room, and be able to genuinely appreciate the soulful presentation and flavours. That's how the restaurant name was derived too – kinara or 'kannar' refers to the shore, a place where one can find rest and contentment.

What makes Dubai special when it comes to food?

Dubai has found its place among the top culinary capitals, alongside Tokyo, London, New York City and others. What's different about this city is that it emphasises dining diversity. This is atypical of counterpart cities – like Paris, for example, where French chefs dominate the industry with locally-inspired fare. It's rather unheard of, to see an expatriate community given equal footing to express their authentic and creative selves through food.

What are some of your favourite places to visit in Dubai?

The city is like a big theme park for kids and grown-ups to enjoy. We started with heritage explorations, and it was fascinating to learn of the country's development over the last three decades to become a global entertainment and design hotspot. At the same time, I was touched by how well the traditions are honoured and preserved, despite ongoing transformations. Also, I can also never get over the iconic city skyline! 

I love Dubai Marina and am always inspired by the architecture and colours of the neighbourhood. I enjoy driving around the city to see how the old landscapes meet the new. One of my favourite spots to revisit is the Old Dubai area for its souks and the port. Which reminds me...my grandfather used to say: "without a strong foundation, it would be impossible to build something lasting". I think the reason why Dubai has grown in leaps and bounds is because the city builds on its unique legacy.

What inspired you to become a chef?

I've been fascinated with cooking since my childhood. I grew up in Amritsar in India – the city of the Golden Temple, which runs the world's largest community kitchen. My understanding of and mindset around food was nurtured by watching how, every single day, thousands of people were being fed and cared for. It made me realise that food offers so much more than sustenance. There's a sacred but also secular quality to it, allowing people from all walks of life to come together and find common ground in shared joy.

If you could single out a memorable career moment, what would it be?

One of my top career moments was when I was at Buckingham Palace, waiting in line to meet Queen Elizabeth II and gift her a cookbook of mine, Utsav. 12 years in the making, the book explores India's rich cuisines, cultures and festivals. While waiting, I realised I'd rather have the meeting at a table, in order for the book to be properly showcased. I wasn't there for a 'photo op' and though my book wasn't a great work of literature, in my mind, it represented a big part of my nation's wonderful identity. I spoke to the household staff and requested a separate audience with Her Majesty, honouring her with a small taste of India.

Book a table at the city's most talked-about modern Indian restaurants, or read more chef interviews with Pierre Gagnaire and Massimo Bottura.